| Much
more than just the capital of Bahia, Salvador, Brazil,
is synonymous of a state of mind. It is the Brazilian
city which most evokes relaxation, spontaneity, feasts
and religiousness. "Bahians aren't just born, they
take the stage" said the composer Caetano Veloso,
one of the great stars of Brazilian Popular Music, when
speaking of the large number of his fellow countrymen,
artists, all concentrated in Salvador. Caetano's joke
can be explained by the fact that no other Brazilian
capital or center, in recent decades, can claim to have
such artistic exuberance as this city.
Moreover,
this capital has such a strong presence in all areas
- economic, social, cultural and political - that its
name is confused with that of Bahia. It is common for
someone to say that they are going to "the city
of Bahia", when in reality they are travelling
to Salvador. In the words of its best-loved son, the
late whiter Jorge Amado, the writer frequently referred
to the "city of Bahia" when he was really
writing about Salvador.
This Salvador, so deeply imprinted on the hearts of
the people of Bahia, is the main port of entry of foreign
tourist to North-East Brazil, who are captivated by
its charm, by its infrastructure of hotels and the combination
of city and architecture, which finds its greatest expression
at the Pelourinho. The Pelô, as it is affectionately
called by the Bahians, is located in the historical
center of Salvador, the greatest collection of colonial
architecture in Latin America, listed for conservation
by Unesco as a World Heritage site. Its pavements, steep
streets and public squares serve as permanent stages
for musical presentations, and are the strongholds of
Olodum, Ilê-Ayê and the Sons of Ghandhi,
Afro groups (percussion bands based on African rhythms)
which draw crowds the whole year round, particularly
during the Carnival.
Founded in 1549 on a hill overlooking the bay of All
Saints, Salvador was the first capital of Brazil. In
1763, due to interests of the Portuguese Crown, it lost
this status to Rio de Janeiro. It still retains its
splendour from the golden years in which it enjoyed
the status of seat of government of the Colony, in the
form of the Basílica Cathedral, an example of
Portuguese architecture, where in 1697 father Antônio
Vieira died - a preacher of great eloquence, but whose
sermons led him to be arrested and condemned by the
Inquisition, the sentence being later annulled.
Seat of the first Catholic diocese in the country, Salvador
retains from that period and previous decades buildings
which are considered true architectural relics. Of particular
prominence amongst these are the Church and Convent
of Saint Francis, one of the richest religious establishments
in Brazil. The baroque façade of the church,
dated 1723, conceals treasures inside, such as Portuguese
panels which show the legend of the birth of Saint Francis
and his renunciation of worldly goods.
Next to these buildings can be found the church of the
Third Order of Saint Francis, dated 1702, and a convent.
The set back façade of the temple alludes to
the Spanish baroque. There are beautiful paintings on
the roof, painted by Franco Velasco in 1831. In the
convent, tiled panels created in 1729 portray the nuptials
of the firstborn son of Dom João V, the infant
Dom José, with the Lisbon of before the 1755
earthquake in the background.
However, the most popular church in Bahia is that of
the Senhor do Bonfim, where every year during the second
fortnight of January, Bahians in traditional costume
wash its steps. Built on a hill, it was decorated with
white Portuguese tiles in 1772, a century after it was
finished. Its façade is rococo and the interior
neoclassic.
There are also museums in Salvador, such as those of
the Sacred Art and Modern Art; the Ancient Medical Faculty,
first school of its kind in Brazil; the Lacerda Elevator
with its four cabins, which since 1930 has linked the
Tomé de Souza square in the Upper City to the
Cairu square in the Lower City, separated by a drop
of 72 metres; and the Model Market, with more than 300
stalls where one can buy arts and crafts products of
Bahia, next to restaurants and bars with typical food
and drink. In the capital of Bahia one of the most successful
projects for the assistance and education of street
children was developed, the Axé project (an object
sacred to the African religion).
The increasing number of tourists who come to Bahia
are attracted not only by Salvador, but also by more
than a thousand kilometers of coastline and numerous
islands, the most famous of these being that of Itaparica,
linked to the state capital by ferry boat and by the
BR-101. On the south coast of Bahia, Porto Seguro is
an attraction in Brazil and internationally. It is an
important historic landmark, being the place where Brazil
was discovered. Together with Trancoso, Arraial d'Ajuda
and Santa Cruz Cabrália, Porto Seguro forms the
Rectangle
of Discovery
Prominently featured on the south coast of Bahia are
also the Morro (hill) of São Paulo, on the island
of Tinharé, a small settlement characterized
by its charm, peace and absence of cars; and the Costa
do Cacau, the region between Ilhéus and Canavieiras,
so called on account of being the main producer of cocoa
in Bahia. On route, the tourist will find real tropical
ecological sanctuaries: miles of beaches, some almost
deserted, dense coconut plantations, varied vegetation
of the native Atlantic Rain Forest, large areas of mangroves
and beautiful cocoa plantations.
The north coast stands out because of the Linha Verde,
the highway which links Salvador to the state of Sergipe.
One hundred and forty two kilometers along the coast
are of tarmac, well signposted and with traffic signals,
surrounded by enormous plantations of coconut palms,
lakes, waterfalls and dunes. On route, there are Arembepe,
hippy paradise of the 60's; Imbassaí, obligatory
stopping-point, with fresh and salt water baths; Barra
do Itariri, small fishing settlement, with dunes, mangroves
and reefs; Praia do Sítio, the most lively and
with an infrastructure of hostelries and restaurants;
Conde, called the "Marshland of Bahia"; and
Praia do Forte, the most celebrated, and home of the
Tamar project for the preservation of turtles. The Linha
Verde ends at Mangue Seco, which is already inside the
state of Sergipe.
| Rio
and Salvador |
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Salvador
(Pelourinho district) and Recife (olinda).
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