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capital of the state of Pernambuco started its existence
at the mouth of the Capibaribe and Beberibe rivers in
1548 as a fishing settlement, but it soon grew and became
the seat of government during the period when the Dutch
occupied the North East region of Brazil. It is known
as the "Venice of Brazil" on account of its
bridges, canals and rivers - in the center of the city
alone there are 39 bridges crossing more than 50 canals.
The capital of Pernambuco is a mixture of past and present.
Hidden behind a wall of modern buildings lies the Patio
de São Pedro, comprising colonial houses of the
eighteenth and nineteenth centuries around the cathedral
of São Pedro. The old prison has been converted
into a popular cultural center, with shops selling fabrics,
carpets, items of rope and straw, embroidery and pottery.
Recife
is also the *"Frevo"
capital of Brazil. During Carnival, the Galo da Madrugada
group of dancers opens the proceedings and brings over
a million people onto the streets - the group has entered
the Guinness Book of Records as the largest Carnival
group in the world. In the capital of Pernambuco, art
and culture permeate life and are reflected in the colonial
architecture of the houses, churches and old forts.
In the Museum of Man of the North East, an important
collection takes the visitor back to the past, to the
height of the sugar era and to the best of Pernambucan
popular art. On the banks of the Capibaribe river, 16
kilometres from Recife, is the workshop and museum of
the artist Francisco Brennand, in an old sugar mill
which he has renovated. The museum is also called the
"Cathedral of Art", and 2,000 works by the
artist are on show there.
Amid
such picturesque scenes the visitor will find the sea
calm and warm, with a south east breeze blowing almost
continuously for those who enjoy watersports such as
windsurfing. In between swimming bouts, there is nothing
better than a coconut juice or a cold beer with fried
fish or crab in a bar or restaurant or in the simple
but welcoming thatched huts on the beach. Boa Viagem
beach, in the capital itself, is one of the most famous.
*Frevo - a fast paced joyful
music and dance performed with colorful umbrellas.
Olinda
Frustrated
at not having found in Brazil the precious metals which
the Spanish had torn from more civilized peoples in
the part of the Americas assigned to them by the Treaty
of Tordesillas, the only alternative for the Portuguese
was the growing of cane and the production of sugar
in order to make economically viable the colonization
of their recently discovered virgin territories. During
the colonial period most of the sugar mills were concentrated
in the North East region of Brazil, where in 1535, in
the captaincy of Pernambuco, the town of Olinda was
founded and quickly became a shop window for the accumulated
wealth of the neighbouring sugar plantation owners.
With its irregular outline, its great buildings erected
on the top of hills with their view towards an emerald
sea, and the smaller houses winding round the lower
slopes, Olinda is a magnificent example of an informally
created town, typical of Portuguese colonization in
Brazil. The name itself is said to have originated in
the exclamation of the hereditary captain Duarte Coelho,
on gazing at the magnificent vista which unfolded before
him from the spot he had chosen for the foundation of
the town. *
The wealth of the Brazilian North East had soon stirred
the envy of others, particularly the Dutch who invaded
Pernambuco in 1630 and captured Olinda in the same year.
But from the strategic point of view of the Dutch the
town was not easily defensible, and they soon burned
and abandoned it, preferring to settle in the neighbouring
marshes around the hamlet of Recife, which they proceeded
to drain in the way they were accustomed to in Holland.
There followed a period of extraordinary development
in less than two decades.
With the expulsion of the Dutch in 1654, Olinda was
only gradually reconstructed, because it had already
begun to suffer increasing competition from Recife,
which had established itself as an important commercial
centre and would soon be promoted to administrative
capital of the Captaincy. What Olinda lost in terms
of government buildings was more than made up for by
the construction of the monumental monasteries and convents
of the religious orders. Carmelites, Franciscans, Benedictines
and Jesuits occupied the heights of the city and produced,
especially in the interior of the convent buildings,
the purest examples of baroque art in colonial Brazil.
Olinda
ceased to compete with Recife and thus preserved its
original features until the twentieth century, when
it came to be considered as a dormitory town. In 1937,
when it was officially declared an Historic City, its
main attractions were still its unique design, its houses
with narrow facades and long, tree-lined gardens, and
the high artistic quality of some of its buildings,
which stood proudly among the exuberant tropical vegetation.
International recognition of the aesthetic value of
Olinda dates from 1982, when it was classified as a
World Heritage Site by Unesco.
*
Olinda comes from the interjection "oh!" plus
"linda"(beautiful)
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